Cairns and Port Douglas, Australia
Cairns is a tourist trap, but I was able to stay in a lovely all women''s hostel run by a super sweet woman named Dawn. She was even recommended to me as a wonderful proprieter by the racist bus driver on the way from the airport (racist because she treated a group of Shri-Lankan/American tourists like shit on the bus...but I won't digress). Yes, I have seen Australian racism in full gear, it's as bad as the states, as is the consumerism. I don't quite understand it, an almost obession and repulsion with all things American (TV especially) but Australia has a lot of great things about it as well. Besides logging Tasmania into oblivion, they seem to have quite an environmental consciousness. In Cairns, I went to what was quite possibly the most beautiful series of botanic gardens I've ever seen in a city. It was a mini rain forest and mangrove forest....with a mini rain forest/reserve backed up next to it (Mt. Whitfield reserve). The mangrove had "beware crocodile"signs all along it. I went for a hike around Mt. Whitfield and saw a herd of wallaroos, stout little cousins of the more well known kangaroo. Wild turkey, wild Cockatoos, Parrots, beautifully colored birds. Next to the forest was a really cool arts center called "Tanks" made out of 5 massive old oil tanks. I went inside to one of the theater spaces (which still has some smell of oil) and some young kids were dancing to Hindi music. Of course the center was funded by the government. You would never see anything like it in the states.
In Cairns, I went to a super informative (and entertaining) lecture by a marine biologist. It's called Reef Teach and I'm so glad I did the two hour course before I went diving. He's been diving in this area for 30 years and knew EVERYTHING. Some interesting facts about the reef include:
1. Coral mate only once a year, around the November full moon. When they do, they release egg and sperm (red in color) that floods the ocean, when diving the top five meters is all red. When fertilized, the tiny polyp attatches itself to a rock and begins multiplying, eventually making up the 2,900 reefs that rise like volcanic islands out of the ocean.
2. Coral eat algae caught between their crevaces. The hard bits are actually a calcium carbonated shell, surrounding the soft tissue of the polyp. Plankton and sea weed are a major threat to the reef as large amounts block out sun light, not allowing the algae to reproduce. This is why cattle farms are partially responsible for killing the reef, run off into the ocean of nitrates produces plankton and sea weed.
3. The Barrier reef has the most diverse marine ecology on the planet...and arguably, being backed against the Daintree Reserve (the world's oldest rainforest), is bestowed with most biologically diverse region on the planet.
4.The barrier reef is endangered, dying at an alarming rate because of the warming of the oceans and not from the sun tan lotion of the millions of tourists who come here. Picking up hard coral and accidentally kicking or standing on it can damage and kill it, but the main threats are global warming(every El Nino, large portions of the reef bleach and die) and nitrate pollution.
There was so much more that is so fascinating about this area of the world. There is no other place like it. It is the only living phenomenon that can be seen from space!!!!
I went diving, to what was the healthiest part of the reef, along the continental shelf. All three dives were in the Agincourt reef system, a series of reefs stretching along the continental shelf. It took 1.5 hours to boat to the location in a catamaran speed boat. I took some ginger tablets hoping they would work...unfortunately they did not. More about that later.
We arrived at the first location. The boat was crammed with vacationing Aussies, Kiwis, Brits, Germans and Americans. Interesting note, I have seen hardly any Americans (outside Prague) till I got to this area of the world. They are everywhere, as ubiquitous as the American corporations that seem to cover every corner of a main street. Most of the folks I have met are lovely, as disgusted about the government as I am. One guy from DC was wearing a "no republicans"cap...
Anyway, we arrived at our first location and all the snorklers and divers suited up. I was a little rusty as I have only dove 4 times from my certification, so they were ordering me to "jump in! your group is already in the water" even before I did a complete check of everything.
I hastily got in the water...which is never good. At least my air was on. As we descended my ears began to pang and I got this sense of panic you do when you are out of control. My mask began to fill with water..which is normal...so I blew it out and adjusted it on my head...I was focusing on calming down. If you are stressed while diving, bad things can happen plus you have a shitty time.
The dive guide could see I was having trouble descending so he came to my aid and pulled me down. Outside of my mask being a bit steamy (I forgot to spit in it) I could see the Great Barrier reef from 56 feet below. The colors of the reef were blue, yellow, grey and black. Visibility was amazing as there are no plankton or plants (that would kill the reef) You could see for at least 60 feet (in vietnam the most I could see was 15). Giant Sea Urchins, clown fish (like in finding nemo) but mostly mountainous coral that shot up from the continental shelf like the himilayas. I swam away from the coral and looked down into blackness, how many miles down did that drop go? I was flying through a canyon. What lurked beneath? I swam back to the group and stayed closely by my buddy and dive guide. So we swam through canyons of coral, a glorious colorful forest that naturally calms you if you simply notice it.
The next dive was much better. I was better prepared, more confident and descended with ease. Schools of butterfly fish, parrot fish (you could hear chomping on the choral as that is their food source), sea squirts, cucumbers...massive star fish. You could see some fish opening their mouths as smaller fish would go inside to clean their gills. It is truly a mutually beneficial relationship. The big fish opens its mouth, and the tiny one trustingly enters and reemerges a few seconds later. This is mating season, so most fish are at the top and snorkling was really good. As you just skimmed the surface you could see giant clams, puff fish, giant wrasse fish (massive, four and 5 feet long).
But by far the most amazing thing I saw were waves breaking in the middle of the ocean, hitting the reef from the continental shelf. YOU COULD SURF OUT THERE! The waves were perfect! The tide and winds were strong , though, and the fish would be pushed and pulled with each wave. They didn't seem to mind. They looked use to it, didn't struggle. So I tried to do the same and it was like rocking to a lullaby.
When I emerged from the water to the boat I felt nauseous. The ginger tablets didn't work. The divemaster looked at my green face and asked if I wanted a bag. I said YES!!!!. When he turned around the corner to get the bag, I vomited all over the floor. The other divers were looking at me and I felt like I did in 1st grade when I peed my pants. It was humiliating. The divemaster came back with a typical Aussie response "no worries!!!If you do that in the water, you'll have fish all over you....they love vomit!!!"
I had the opportunity to test that theory out when I went snorkling at the third site. I swam over to a reef (that supposedly had sharks...I really wanted to see a whale shark) and began uncontrollably vomiting. Sure enough, dozens of fish swam around me for their meal. I decided to head away from there because I was worried the sharks might come up for a snack ...thinking I might be a part of what was just regurgitated. So I swam to another reef and threw up again. Even more fish! I was glad to provide the service...and after getting up my full buffet lunch...felt much better. By the end of the dive though, I was ready to get off that damn boat. So take it from me...if you go on a boat....DON'T TAKE GINGER....or if you do...bring some dramamine with you just in case.
I stayed in Port Douglas for the night, a "nice" town kind of on the par with Carmel. It's too nice for me, but I stayed in a cheap hostel that has good food AND a pool designed to look like a lagoon. It's quite posh. As I walked to town this morning, I looked up in the trees along the road next to some horrific tourist developments. The trees were above a dry mangrove forest (with sewage being dumped in it unfortunately) But they had probably 1 million giant fruit bats sleeping in the Eucalyptus trees. Some of them were wiggling into position, others quarreling. One flew and its wing span was at least 4 feet. REALLY AMAZING. The ground was crawling with little red crabs burrowing in small holes in the mud. At night, the Bats took off towards the Daintree reserve. They awake at about 6:30, stretch their wings and begin chirping into a deafening sound that can be heard across the region. At 7 they take off, first a few then....millions, from all over the region, following a line straight to the rainforest. IT WAS INCREDIBLE. It lasted for about 3 hours. Millions and millions of giant bats rising from what looked like miles away, following in a clear line to the mountains. I couldn't believe it so I got it on video. The local woman who lives acrosst he street said casually that the bats showed up a couple of years ago and just stayed. She didn't understand my fascination because she is so used to them. She didn't even know which direction they flew in "all over" she said. If I was her I''d have a barbecue every night at 7:30 to watch that sight. It was incredible.
I also went to Mossman Gorge yesterday and went hiking in the first tip of the Daintree. I went swimming in the river with large black trout. Today I'm heading up to Cape Tribulation to do more hiking and possibly another dive if it's cheap enough. Money is a bit tight at the moment and I got real spoiled being in Southeast Asia where you can do just about anything because it's so cheap. Despite the exchange rate being lousy, the wildlife here is amazing and I'm so happy to be able to see it. It's really incredible.
In Cairns, I went to a super informative (and entertaining) lecture by a marine biologist. It's called Reef Teach and I'm so glad I did the two hour course before I went diving. He's been diving in this area for 30 years and knew EVERYTHING. Some interesting facts about the reef include:
1. Coral mate only once a year, around the November full moon. When they do, they release egg and sperm (red in color) that floods the ocean, when diving the top five meters is all red. When fertilized, the tiny polyp attatches itself to a rock and begins multiplying, eventually making up the 2,900 reefs that rise like volcanic islands out of the ocean.
2. Coral eat algae caught between their crevaces. The hard bits are actually a calcium carbonated shell, surrounding the soft tissue of the polyp. Plankton and sea weed are a major threat to the reef as large amounts block out sun light, not allowing the algae to reproduce. This is why cattle farms are partially responsible for killing the reef, run off into the ocean of nitrates produces plankton and sea weed.
3. The Barrier reef has the most diverse marine ecology on the planet...and arguably, being backed against the Daintree Reserve (the world's oldest rainforest), is bestowed with most biologically diverse region on the planet.
4.The barrier reef is endangered, dying at an alarming rate because of the warming of the oceans and not from the sun tan lotion of the millions of tourists who come here. Picking up hard coral and accidentally kicking or standing on it can damage and kill it, but the main threats are global warming(every El Nino, large portions of the reef bleach and die) and nitrate pollution.
There was so much more that is so fascinating about this area of the world. There is no other place like it. It is the only living phenomenon that can be seen from space!!!!
I went diving, to what was the healthiest part of the reef, along the continental shelf. All three dives were in the Agincourt reef system, a series of reefs stretching along the continental shelf. It took 1.5 hours to boat to the location in a catamaran speed boat. I took some ginger tablets hoping they would work...unfortunately they did not. More about that later.
We arrived at the first location. The boat was crammed with vacationing Aussies, Kiwis, Brits, Germans and Americans. Interesting note, I have seen hardly any Americans (outside Prague) till I got to this area of the world. They are everywhere, as ubiquitous as the American corporations that seem to cover every corner of a main street. Most of the folks I have met are lovely, as disgusted about the government as I am. One guy from DC was wearing a "no republicans"cap...
Anyway, we arrived at our first location and all the snorklers and divers suited up. I was a little rusty as I have only dove 4 times from my certification, so they were ordering me to "jump in! your group is already in the water" even before I did a complete check of everything.
I hastily got in the water...which is never good. At least my air was on. As we descended my ears began to pang and I got this sense of panic you do when you are out of control. My mask began to fill with water..which is normal...so I blew it out and adjusted it on my head...I was focusing on calming down. If you are stressed while diving, bad things can happen plus you have a shitty time.
The dive guide could see I was having trouble descending so he came to my aid and pulled me down. Outside of my mask being a bit steamy (I forgot to spit in it) I could see the Great Barrier reef from 56 feet below. The colors of the reef were blue, yellow, grey and black. Visibility was amazing as there are no plankton or plants (that would kill the reef) You could see for at least 60 feet (in vietnam the most I could see was 15). Giant Sea Urchins, clown fish (like in finding nemo) but mostly mountainous coral that shot up from the continental shelf like the himilayas. I swam away from the coral and looked down into blackness, how many miles down did that drop go? I was flying through a canyon. What lurked beneath? I swam back to the group and stayed closely by my buddy and dive guide. So we swam through canyons of coral, a glorious colorful forest that naturally calms you if you simply notice it.
The next dive was much better. I was better prepared, more confident and descended with ease. Schools of butterfly fish, parrot fish (you could hear chomping on the choral as that is their food source), sea squirts, cucumbers...massive star fish. You could see some fish opening their mouths as smaller fish would go inside to clean their gills. It is truly a mutually beneficial relationship. The big fish opens its mouth, and the tiny one trustingly enters and reemerges a few seconds later. This is mating season, so most fish are at the top and snorkling was really good. As you just skimmed the surface you could see giant clams, puff fish, giant wrasse fish (massive, four and 5 feet long).
But by far the most amazing thing I saw were waves breaking in the middle of the ocean, hitting the reef from the continental shelf. YOU COULD SURF OUT THERE! The waves were perfect! The tide and winds were strong , though, and the fish would be pushed and pulled with each wave. They didn't seem to mind. They looked use to it, didn't struggle. So I tried to do the same and it was like rocking to a lullaby.
When I emerged from the water to the boat I felt nauseous. The ginger tablets didn't work. The divemaster looked at my green face and asked if I wanted a bag. I said YES!!!!. When he turned around the corner to get the bag, I vomited all over the floor. The other divers were looking at me and I felt like I did in 1st grade when I peed my pants. It was humiliating. The divemaster came back with a typical Aussie response "no worries!!!If you do that in the water, you'll have fish all over you....they love vomit!!!"
I had the opportunity to test that theory out when I went snorkling at the third site. I swam over to a reef (that supposedly had sharks...I really wanted to see a whale shark) and began uncontrollably vomiting. Sure enough, dozens of fish swam around me for their meal. I decided to head away from there because I was worried the sharks might come up for a snack ...thinking I might be a part of what was just regurgitated. So I swam to another reef and threw up again. Even more fish! I was glad to provide the service...and after getting up my full buffet lunch...felt much better. By the end of the dive though, I was ready to get off that damn boat. So take it from me...if you go on a boat....DON'T TAKE GINGER....or if you do...bring some dramamine with you just in case.
I stayed in Port Douglas for the night, a "nice" town kind of on the par with Carmel. It's too nice for me, but I stayed in a cheap hostel that has good food AND a pool designed to look like a lagoon. It's quite posh. As I walked to town this morning, I looked up in the trees along the road next to some horrific tourist developments. The trees were above a dry mangrove forest (with sewage being dumped in it unfortunately) But they had probably 1 million giant fruit bats sleeping in the Eucalyptus trees. Some of them were wiggling into position, others quarreling. One flew and its wing span was at least 4 feet. REALLY AMAZING. The ground was crawling with little red crabs burrowing in small holes in the mud. At night, the Bats took off towards the Daintree reserve. They awake at about 6:30, stretch their wings and begin chirping into a deafening sound that can be heard across the region. At 7 they take off, first a few then....millions, from all over the region, following a line straight to the rainforest. IT WAS INCREDIBLE. It lasted for about 3 hours. Millions and millions of giant bats rising from what looked like miles away, following in a clear line to the mountains. I couldn't believe it so I got it on video. The local woman who lives acrosst he street said casually that the bats showed up a couple of years ago and just stayed. She didn't understand my fascination because she is so used to them. She didn't even know which direction they flew in "all over" she said. If I was her I''d have a barbecue every night at 7:30 to watch that sight. It was incredible.
I also went to Mossman Gorge yesterday and went hiking in the first tip of the Daintree. I went swimming in the river with large black trout. Today I'm heading up to Cape Tribulation to do more hiking and possibly another dive if it's cheap enough. Money is a bit tight at the moment and I got real spoiled being in Southeast Asia where you can do just about anything because it's so cheap. Despite the exchange rate being lousy, the wildlife here is amazing and I'm so happy to be able to see it. It's really incredible.
posted by Mr. Sophie at 11:54 PM
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