Wellington, New Zealand

I spent a couple of days in Dunedin, mostly to check out the city and see the cool public art gallery. In it, there is a New Zealand film archive of about 200 or so films that you can just sit and watch. I watched Jane Campion's "Angel at My Table" done as a mini series in 1991 for New Zealand television. It's based on the autobiography of author Janet Frame (who died just last year). I'm so glad I watched it as it gave me a New Perspective on New Zealand and life here. If you can rent it, do, as it's a beautiful and intelligent film.

I got to Wellington and found my way to Beethoven house. Some friends I had met in Australia; Fiona and Kat, a lovely couple from Manchester, reccommended it. It took some investigating to find the place as it wasn't listed in any of the tour books like Lonely Planet or Rough Guide. The house is literally a house with busts of Beethoven and a sign on the front door that reads "WARNING: All the horrible rumors of Beethoven house are true...stay here at your own risk". I entered the kitchen to put my food in the fridge and a small 70 year old asian man with a camp Brittish accent (Quentin Crisp comes to mind) immediately asked me where I was from. He told me he was from "the cleanest place in the world". His tone hinted that he was making fun of it so I said "Ah...Singapore...yeah they have some weird laws there about spitting and throwing trash on the street I've heard". This sent the little guy into a 15 minute tirade about how a civilised society SHOULD have strict laws involving heavy finds and execution for littering on the streets. After a quarter of an hour of saying the same thing over and over I interjected for the first time by saying "Gotcha...gotta go...it was nice talking to you".

The next morning I was awakend by deafening classical music, what I've come to endearingly call the first awakening to "Classical Bootcamp". Hungover backpackers slowly made their way to the communal garden where the eccentric Singaporean man (his name is Alan) slopped porridge with candy sprinkles into a variety of coffee cups, plastic saucers and small bowls. Tea was served, complete with bread and cheese toasties with hearts cut out of the bread so that an orange cheese heart appears under your nose as you bite in. "Anyone who wants porridge come and get it now! Or forever hold your peace! I don't want to hear about anyone missing breakfast and complaining that they are still hungry at 11 o clock". This is classic Alan, along with the blaring music and the 30 minute speeches in the morning that accompany the breakfast. The speeches, I believe are his way of connecting with people, of practicing his love for theater, as well as being the center of attention. It's a joy to watch.

Alan has run the backpacker for almost 30 years. He is a classic eccentric, and though a bit difficult, has a heart of gold. The rumors abound because of his eccentricities, to the point that older versions of travel books refer to the "eccentric owner". Now they don't mention the place at all and I can only assume it is because some jerks complained without soaking in the full unique atmosphere of the place. Fiona and Kat have been there for a few weeks now,. They love it as well, except one of the assistants is a bit of a pervert and seems to follow their every move, even asking Kat out (knowing she's a lesbian). But it's a minor thing and the guy is just kind of a lost soul who argues with his ex on his cell phone for about 3 hours every night. We have come to the conclusion he's going through some kind of breakdown or something.

I could write loads about this place really, all the characters, travellers, bums, workers (working at subway, dominos pizza, pubs, bakeries etc). The great thing about it is that we all get to know eachother because of Alan's eccentricities and the communal breakfast. It always astounds me how eating together can create such a quick sense of community. It really is primal I suppose but something we rarely ...if ever do outside the confines of our own homes.

Wellington is really happening right now...there is loads going on. A fringe festival, Carnival, all sorts of stuff. I made it to a couple of theater pieces (one about a train called Train Ghosts and another that took place in a pool called "Growing Potatos"). Train Ghosts was at the cool new theater space that is dedicated to new works called "bats" http://www.bats.co.nz/
It reminded me a lot of the Traverse in Edinburgh, but smaller, more intimate, and more active with the local community. I so wish there was a space like it in San Francisco, a space that provided resources for emerging artists. But that takes a government that believes in funding the arts.

Kat and I went to Parliament and took a free tour. They weren't in session, but I'm hoping to go back and watch them debate in the chambers. There is kind of a British style to the debating chambers, where they openly argue and make fun of one another in a quite animated sort of way. The MP's are an eclectic mix representing 6 parties in all (Green Party, Maori Party, Labour and the scary conservative National party, etc) One of the MP's in New Zealand is Transexual and the Prime Minister is a woman! The country doesn't have an air force, and most of the tax dollars that are spent actually go towards things like health care, DOC (department of conservation), the arts, education etc. What a concept! The Parliament even had an art gallery, with one piece of art that was a stone with hundreds of ribbons on it. The ribbons were all made by individual New Zealanders, representing the countries they were from. China, Ireland, Tonga, Chile, Ethiopia. It was quite beautiful. People still drop off ribbons to be added to the piece, a celebration of the country's diversity. America...take note! When the tour guide asked what country I was from, the crowd shouted "Japan! Pakistan! Canada!...etc. I kept quiet...I didn't want to see an American ribbon on the stone. My country didn't feel worthy really to be a part of that celebration of diversity and the world.

Just outside Wellington is a beautiful DOC sanctuary of about 300 hectares that I went walking in with Fiona. It was so wonderful to be in nature so close to the city, not to mention the beautiful bay that the city rests on. All of this really wouldn't be if it weren't for the progressive government and the people of New Zealand.

Hillary and Chris are in town performing with their band Sabot and we got to go see them at this great club here in Wellington called Happy. It was so great to see them both and kind of a wonderful circle in the ending of the trip. Seeing them reminded me how I love being around creative/activist people, how it makes me feel at home and how I need it in my life. They are touring around New Zealand thanks to the band who they played with called mr. sterile assembly. This band is completely AMAZING. Check out their website www.mrsterile.co.nz They mix theater with an eclectic punk sound, using cellos, trombones clarinets...you name it.

I have two more weeks left and am feeling a mixture of anticipation and dread. Returning to the states to see my dog, friends and family will be wonderful after being away, but I am afraid about that rut one gets in with life, that day to day mundane routine that eats up one's time and makes you forget you are alive. I'm afraid of the US, the government but more significantly its culture, and being in that society and the ambitious loneliness that accompanies it. The trip has been great, but I haven't quite grasped how to live abroad without starting completely over on my own...which also terrifies me. I've spent that last six months thinking a lot about the future, but really have just been enjoying the present. Doing so has been a remarkable experience that in retrospect has confirmed in me that I need to just keep pressing on, keep honing what I am doing, and continue learning and travelling, rather than starting on a completely new path. Perhaps this path will bring me to another country to live, I don't know. I hope so. All I can say now is that I know myself just a little bit better and that the world is a magical place worth exploring.